Force lasted shoe with toe stiffener



Jan. 14, 1947. J. SVKAMBORIAN 2,414,104

FORCE LASTED. SHOE WITH TOE STIFFENER Filed Oct. 31, 1944 Y s Sheets-Sheet 1 f 1220622307 @Mozz'arv a @zrfiw Jan. 14, 1947. ,1. s KAMBORIAN FORCE LASTED S' HOE VIITH2-EOET1FFENER Filed Oct. 31. 1944 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Jan. 14, 1947; J, 5; KAMBQRIAN 2,414,104

Fon c s LASTED SHOEVWITH TOE STIFFENER I Filed Oct 31, 1944 s Sheets -Sheet s layer @626 Jifik'zmanmrv Patented Jan. 14, 1947 UNITED STATES I Paraprorrlcs' FORCE LASTED SHOE WITH TOE STIF F ENER Jacob S. Kamborian, West Newton, Mass. 7 Application October 31, 1944, Serial'No. "561,282.

'12 Claims. or. se -19.5)

This invention pertains to force-lasted orCali-' fornia type shoes, and relatesfmore particularly to a novel shoeand to a novel method of making a such shoes.

Heretofore the introduction of'end stiffeners (toe boxes and counters) into such shoes has been attended with difliculty, and by far the t greater proportion of shoes of this'type are made without end stiifeners, although the provision;

of such stifieners would in many cases enhance the appearance and Wearing qualities of the shoe.

The principal objector the present invention is to providea novel mode of procedure whereby a toe box or counter, or both, may readily be introduced during the course of manufacture and without necessitating any radical departure from prior practice in making shoes of this type. A

further object is to provide a novel and useful method whereby an end stiffener may be interposed between the lining and'outer element of the shoe upper. Other and further objects and advantages of the invention will be pointed out in the following more detaileddescription and by reference to the accompanying drawings,

wherein Fig. 1 is a plan view of a-sock lining such as employed in shoes ofthetype to which the inven- I tion relates; a t t Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic section on the line 2-2 .ofFig.1; I

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic plan view of a toe stiffener or box useful in the practice of'th'e present invention;

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic plan view of a heel practice of the stiffener or counter'useful in the present invention; r

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic,longitudinal section through the sock lining showing both end stiffeners secured thereto. Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 but showing the shoe upper assembled with and attached to the sock lining; r

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6, but showing the parts after introduction of the last into the .Fig. 8 is a longitudinal section showing the com-f pleted shoe with the last still in the upper;

In accordanc with the present inventiom'the upper of the shoe may-be provided with a stiffener:

at .either endfo r example it may have a box at the toe, or a counter at. the heel, or both as may be desired. A illustrated; the, toe stiflener 2 iscut to the proper shape and dimensions in accordance'with usual practice, providing suf-v sock lining as hereinafter described; and the' counter 3 is likewise in generalof conventional form and dimensions, but also has sufiicient marflcient marginal material for its attachment to. the

ginal allowance'for its attachment to the sock. liningg The toe stiffener 2 and the heel stifi'ener 3 are made of, suitable material whichispreferably initially quite soft and flexible; for example textilefabric, either plain-or impregnated-with appropriate substances to impart -the required stiffness to. the finished shoe andf whichrifinot tile fabric or other ft rmoplastic resin,which,.when sub I material incorporated .in them, maybe provided with a 'coating 'ofsuch material on one or both 1 inert, that is tolsayi not tacky, although having" t erfln ncapability of becoming adhesive sides. In any .event the cementitious material incorporated in the' slhoethe adhesive material is whenfhea'ted or lotherwise properly treated as abovelsuggestedh l Havingfprepa'red the:s0ck.lining and one or both of'the end stiffeners, the'lower ed e of each Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 6 but illustrating 7 a modified procedure;

Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic bottom plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 9; and

Fig. 11 is a view similar to Fig. 9 but showing the shoe part after the introduction of the last.

Referring to the drawings, the numer a.l l de s; ignates a sock lining of the generaltype customarily employed in force-lasted shoes and, which is usually of thin,fi exib1e sheet'materiahl for examplethin leather, textile fabric or a com "bination of textile fabric with other material,

for example paperQintegrated or impregnated with suitable binding or stiffening material.

end stiffener to be used. is securedto the corre- "spp'ndipg'feiidgof the sock lining by a sewed seam "I or respectively (Fig. 5) or by other appropriateiastening elements,.for' example staples.

, material being;capab le of stretching to'some ex appropriate to the particular style of shoe being fltent when subjected to sui'licient force.

The shoe upper, as-illustrated in Fig. 6, comprises a vamp portion 8 and a quarter portion I. The vamp and quarter may be of customary form jectedto proper treatment,- forexample by mois- 1 teningwith .a proper solventand/or by'-treat--" ment with heat and pressure become temporarily w adhesive. on the. other hand the end stiffeners. 3

instead of having the adhesive or cementitious should belsuch thatwhen the stiffener isv firs "Preferably", the initial dimensions of each. stiffener element 2 or 3 is such that its upper edge is ;o f less length, when initially attached to the sock dining than it is in the completed shoe, the

' efera ly. ordentoms re ucashaping. atthetoe. and particularlrwhena oe tiifen r s .51;?"

pl red. themaralnofthe port on of t am is crimped or otherwise contracted so as. to. provide an inwardly concave toe end.

There is also provided wrappermeans, here 7 sh wnas omprisine t o indep nd nt wrapp r strips]: and desisned to-he securedto the va ortio and t th uart r I porti n. r spe l o t e oe p r. the w p r el men s ein so arranged that their. endszlt the shank-portion; ofthe shoe overlap. However it, is,c0ntemp1ated,: in accordance with other common; practice, that the wrapper. may be. continuous, consisting of a singlepiece of material; extending all the way aroundthe shoe. The wrapper. may be attached,

-to theed of t e upper befo e theup e is assembled with the other parts... or i be attached simultaneously with-the attachment Off the upper to another part, for instance thesock lining, or in, fact the wrapper-may be an integral,- extcnsionpftheupperitself. Whatever the type of employed. thelower ed e of the upper is securedl to the marginof the socklining by a seam" or seains .ll and H, such seamsusually also extending through .the edge of the wrapper. While'sewed seams; are desirable, it is contemplatedthat staples may besubstltuted- After the upper. has been assembledwith and attached to.

.the sock lining the end stiflener or stiifeners. are subjected to appropriate treatment to cause them.

to become temporarily:adhesiveand, the last L -is forced into the shoe-upper (F18. '1),-the last being'of. such sizeand dimensions (as. respects the size of theshoe-upmi') hat-when-it is forced into the upper it expands the upper and holds the latter'in fully distended condition so that it firmly and closely hugs. the woodof the last. In thus introducing the last into the upper,v the stinenerel'ementfior elementais or; are caused: to conform iothe corresponding end portion of the last and to be'.pressed veryflrlnly, against the inner surface of the, upper so asto cause adhesion of .the, stiffener and: upper. The. last. L remains in. the upperlong- .enough to permit the adhesiveelern'ent of the upper toset so as permanentlyto unite the stiffener and upper and thus to. impart a. permanent lasted shape to, the end of the shore. The wrapperis now turned downwardly as shown. in Fig. firthecushion sole I! with its heel wedge ill (Fig. ,8) is, disposed in adhesive contact with the undersurface of the socklining; the; lowermargins lljand" ll! of the wrapper members, are-turnedinwardly. beneath the cushion sole and adhesively united to the latter, and the outer sole-B is, securedin place, for example, by adhesive. Theylast may now be withdrawn and the shoe-finished in accordance with usual practice. V

A s i ht modification s lustrated in Figs. 9 to 11, inclusive, the only substantial difference being that, in these views-the vamp portionof" the upper isv shownas comprising anouter'ply 1.

I and a liningply ll while. the quarter portion has the outer ply l1 and a lining ply ll, the lining being united'at itstop edge to the outer portions of the upper in conventional manner;

As described with reference talks I to 8; the end. stifleners 2 and 3' are first; secured by theseams 4 and I- tothe sock lining.- During the' attachment or the margin of the upper to the inner and outer of the toe, stiffener at that side of the shoe, the

lining is pulled rearwardly to form a loose flap asshown at 2| (Fig. 9) and so as to escape the stitches. of seam/l0, the latter then penetrating the outer-ply. l 6. only ofthe upper and continuing alon around the; toe of the shoe to unite the toe element. l8, to the sock lining until the point 22 is reached, whereupon the stitches again are caused to pass through both the outer element l8 and the lining ply I 8 of the vamp. The seam continues on until it reaches, the point 23 at the forward corner .of the counter, at which point the lining is pulledinwardly to form a. loose flap 24 (Fig.v 9), theseam continuing around the heel and of the shoe but securing only they outer element l6 to the sock lining until the point 25 is reached at the .opposite corner of the counter,

beyond which the seam continues, unitin both plies of the upper to the sock lining.

The operator may now push the flaps 2| and 24 inwardly toward the ends of theshoe, it being noted that the toe and heel ends of the lining are out without lasting allowance, and after submittingthe stiffener elements to the treatment necessary to make them adhesive, the last L is inserted, thus forcing the flaps of the lining firmly-into engagement with the respective end stiffeners and. adhesively integrating the lining, stiffener, and outer element of.the upper at each end of the shoe, The other steps in completing the shoe follow those above described with reference to the construction shown in Fig. 8.

It is thus possible to provide a force-lasted shoe with a to'e or heel stiffener element but without substantially departing from the usual steps in making a force-lasted'shoe and without unduly adding to' the cost of production. In accordance with the present process the preliminary attachment of theend stiifeners to the sock lining as above described is an operation which is very easy to perform and one which in fact may be performed by unskilled operators, but nevertheless, in the completed shoe, the end stiffener is properly positioned and imparts a true lasted shape and desirable stiffness to the shoe upper.

While certain desirable embodiments of the invention have been illustrated by way of example it is to be understood that'the invention is broadly inclusive of any and all modifications which fall within the scope of the appended claims.

Iclaim:

1. That method-of making-a force-lasted shoe which comprises as steps providing a soft, flexible sock lining, providing an end stiffener, securing the lower edge of the stiffener to the edge portion of the sock lining, providing an upper and a wrapper, securing the lower edge of the upper and the edge of the wrapper to the edge of the sock lining, causing the end stiffener to become adhesive, introducing a last into the upper and retaining the last in the upper until the adhesive of the stiffener has set.

2. That method of making a force-lasted shoe which comprises as steps, providing a soft, flexilast into the upper and causin the stiifener to become adhesive, the last being forced into the upper with sufiicient pressure to expand the stiiT- ener and press it into intimate adhering contact I with the upper, and maintaining such pressure until such stiffener and upper are permanently adhesively united.

3. That method of making a shoe of the forcelasted type which comprises as steps providing a soft, flexible sock lining, providing an end stiff ener, securing the lower edge of the stiffener to the edge of the corresponding end portion of the sock lining, providing an upper and a wrapper, securing the lower edges of the upper and wrapperrespectively to the edge of the sock lining, causing said stiffener to become adhesive, and causing the adhesive stifiener to adhere to the upper.

4. That method of making a shoe of the forcelasted type which comprises as steps providing a soft, flexible sock lining, providing an end stiifener, securing the lower edge of the stiffener to the edge of the corresponding end portion of the sock lining, providing an upper and a wrapper, securing the lower edges of the upper and wrapper respectively to the edge of the sock lining, causing said stiffener to become adhesive, applying internal pressure to the end stiifener thereby to expand it and force it into close and intimate contact with the upper, and maintaining such pressure until the adhesive has set.

5. That method of making a force-lasted shoe which comprises as steps providing a soft, flexihie sock lining, providing a toe stifiener of sheet material, the stiffener including a substance which initially is non-adhesive but which is inherently capable of becoming adhesive, sewing the lower edge of the stifiener to the edge of the toe end of the sock lining, providing an upper having a crimped and inwardly concave toe end, sewing the lower edge of the upper to the marginal portion of the sock lining, causing the toe stiffener to become adhesive, and introducing a last into the upper thereby forcing the toe stiffener into adhering engagement with the toe portion of the upper.

6. That method of making a force-lasted shoe which comprises as steps providing a soft, flexible sock lining, providing a counter of sheet material, the counter including a substance which initially is non-adhesive but which is inherently capable of becoming adhesive, sewing the lower edge of the counter to the heel end of the sock lining, providing an upper, sewing the lower edge of the upper to the marginal portion of the sock lining, causing the counter to become adhesive and introducing a last into the upper thereby forcing the counter into adhering engagement with the heel portion of the upper.

7. That method of making a force-lasted shoe which comprises as steps providing a thin, flexible sock lining, providing an upper including an outer ply and a lining ply, providing an end stiifener, securing the lower edge of the end stifiener to s the margin of the corresponding end of the sock lining, attaching the lower edge margin of the upper to the sock lining by a seam and while forming the seam, turning back the lining ply at that end of the shoe at which the stiffener is located so that the 'edge portion of the lining ply is not caught into the seam, causing the stiffener to become adhesive, and introducing a last into the upper thereby moving the turned back portion of the lining into contact with the inner surface of the stiffener, and subjecting the latter to pressure thereby adhesively to integrate the lining, stiffener and outer ply of the upper at the endof the'shoe.

8. That method of making a force-lasted shoe which comprises as steps providing a thin, flexible sock lining, providing an upper including an outer ply and a lining ply, providing a counter and a toe stiffener, securing the lower edges of the counter and toe stiffener .to the margins of the corresponding end portions of the sock lining, attaching the lower edge of the upper to the margin of the sock lining by fastener elements which penetrate both the lining and outer ply of the upper except at the ends of the shoe where said fastener elements penetrate the outer ply only, leaving the lining ply iree, causing the counter and toe stiffener to become adhesive, and introducing a last into the shoe, the last being of such size relatively to the shoe size as to distend the upper and forcibly to press the end portions of the lining into contact with the surlaces or the counter and toe stiffener, respectively, and adhesively to integrate the end stlneners, lining and outer ply at the end of the shoe.

9. That method or making a force-lasted shoe which comprises as steps providing a sort, flexible sock lining, providing an end summer, the end stiiiener including a substance which initially is substantially non-adhesive but is inherently capable or becoming adhesive, securing the lower edge of the stihener to the margln DI the end of the sock lining, providing an upper, sewing the lower edge OI the upper to the marginal portion of the sock lining, causing the adhesive to become sticky, and introducing a last into the upper thereby pressing the stiffener into adhering engagement with the end portion or the upper.

10. A iorce-lasted shoe of the kind in which a sock lining, an upper and a wrapper are united by fastening means, the upper comprising a lining and an outer ply, the lining being Iree from said Iastening means at the end or the shoe, and an end stiriener having its lower margin united by said fastening means to the sock lining, said stiiiener being interposed between the lining and outer ply of the upper.

11.. A Icrce lasted shoe of the class described comprising a sock lining, an upper, a wrapper and, at one end, a stiifener, said upper comprising an outer ply and. a lining, tile stlliener o lng interposed between the outer ply and the lining of the upper, the wrapper and the lower edges or the stln'ener and 01' the outer ply or the upper being united by iasten-lng means to the sock lining at that end, and the lining of the upper at that endbeing i'ree irom such iastemng means.

12. A force lasted shoe of the class described. comprising a sock lining, an upper and, at one end, a stin'ener, said upper comprising an outer ply and a lining,the stinener being interposed between the outer ply and the lining OI the upper, the lower edges or .the stirtener and of the outer ply of the upper being united by fastening means to the sock lining at that end, and the lining of the upper at that end being free from such fastening means.

JACOB S. KAMBORIAN. 

